Six Tips for a Pet-Safe Summer

Posted on June 4, 2011 by Andrea

The last days of May signal the unofficial start of summer for folks, young and old, across the country. But with these carefree months of no homework and summer Fridays comes an increased risk for illness or injury for our furry pals.

From unpredictable weather to unusual routines, our animals are exposed to all sorts of hazards during June, July and August, and your pet is counting on you to keep him safe. Check out our top six tips for keeping your animal secure all summer long.

  • Give your pet access to plenty of fresh water at all times. Even the healthiest pets can suffer from dehydration, heat stroke and sunburn if overexposed to the heat.  Below is an article on Prevention and Treatment of Heatstroke from www.the-happy-dog-spot.com
  • Avoid lathering your pet with any insect repellent or sunscreen not intended for the four-legged kind.
  • Keep your pet away from matches, citronella candles and lighter fluid, which if eaten can irritate the stomach, lungs and central nervous system.
  • Be cool near the pool. Don’t leave pets unsupervised around a pool, lake or high waters—not all dogs are expert swimmers!  Life Jackets Save Lives.
  • Never leave your dog, cat or any other animal friend alone in a car! The inside of a car can heat up very quickly—even with a window open.  You wouldn’t leave a child in a car – don’t leave your pooch in the car.

Have a pet-safe summer!

Posted in Pet Safety | Leave a comment

Toxic Effect of Onions on our Canines

Posted on May 13, 2011 by Andrea

Onions are toxic to dogs. The toxicity is dose dependent, so the bigger the animal, the more onion need be consumed to cause a toxicity. Onion toxicity causes a Heinz body anemia. Heinz bodies are small bubble-like projections which protrude from a red blood cell and can be seen when the cells are stained. This “bubble” is a weak spot in the red blood cell and, therefore, the cell has a decreased life-span and ruptures prematurely.

If numerous red cells are affected and rupture, anemia can result. It is a form of hemolytic anemia. Onions are only one of the substances which can cause Heinz body anemia. Other substances such as Acetominophen (Tylenol) and benzocaine-containing topical preparations can also cause Heinz body anemia in the dog.

The toxic effect of the onions are the same whether the product is raw, cooked or dehydrated. The hemolytic episode usually occurs several days after onion ingestion (lowest hematocrit around day 5 post ingestion). Daily feeding of onions could have a cumulative effect due to ongoing formation of Heinz bodies versus a single exposure with a wide gap until the next exposure, allowing the bone marrow time to regenerate the prematurely destroyed red cells.

The cat is even more susceptible. Recently, Gerber began to add onion powder to all its meat baby foods. They are labeled as “better tasting”. Since baby food is often used in sick cats that are not eating (to stimulate their appetites), there was concern that the onion powder would cause a Heinz body anemia in these cats. Within a week or two of the change, there were numerous reports of Heinz body anemia in cats receiving Gerber baby food in their diets.

I strongly recommend NO ONIONS for dogs. There is no benefit and certainly the potential to cause harm.

Written by Dr. Wendy Wallner, DVM

Posted in Dogs, Pet Safety | Leave a comment

Common Myths About Fleas

Posted on March 15, 2011 by Andrea

by Jean Hofve, DVM, Veterinary Advisor to Only Natural Pet

Myth# 1: A healthy pet won’t get fleas – While not a guarantee, it is true that a healthy animal is a much less attractive host for fleas. That’s one of many good reasons to feed a high quality diet of natural food. However, even a healthy pet can get fleas in heavily infested regions, so keep a watchful eye out and use a natural flea repellent on all at-risk pets.

Myth #2: Fleas live on pets, not in the houses – Fleas usually enter the house on pets, as stated above, but they can quickly find refuge in the house. Carpets, bedding, pet beds, and upholstered furniture make cozy homes for fleas, flea eggs, and flea larvae. If you find fleas in the house, you must take quick action to eliminate them there (as well as on your pet, and even in your yard).

Myth #3: Keeping the house clean will prevent fleas – Unfortunately, fleas can infest even the most spotless home. Fleas usually enter the house on your pets, but they can also hitch a ride on clothing, and have even been seen to jump right into the house on their own. Hard-surfaced floors are no protection, either; fleas can live in the cracks and around the edges of wood, laminate, or tile floors. They can also take refuge in furniture, bedding, and area rugs. If you live in an area with fleas, it is important to protect your pets at all times. It’s also important to get rid of fleas in your yard. Creating a flea-free buffer all around the house a great way to prevent infestation.

Myth #4: If I only see a couple of fleas on my pet, then it’s not a big problem – More than 90% of a flea population is in the egg, larval, or pupal (cocoon) stage, all of which take place off the pet, usually in carpet, bedding, or furniture, or shady areas in the yard where your pet (or other critters) hang out. If you see a few fleas, it’s certain that there are hundreds of eggs and immature stages in the environment. The process of producing an adult flea can take weeks or even months. There’s no quick fix, but vigilance and persistence can get rid of even stubborn infestations.

Myth #5: Once the fleas are gone from my pet, the problem is solved – Fleas do not surrender easily. If you have seen fleas on your pet or in house, you need to treat the house with a safe product, and stay vigilant for months. Fully solving the flea problem requires a 3-pronged approach of treating the pet, the house, and the yard. Use an outdoor treatment in shady areas under decks, bushes and trees, where fleas like to hang out. The best approach is prevention, so always protect your pets with a natural flea repellent, especially if they spend time outdoors, or at a dog park or doggie day care.

Myth #6: I don’t have to worry about fleas during winter – Although you may not see them in the winter in cold climates, fleas can live quite comfortably in your house, as well as on wildlife. If your pet or your house had fleas during the warm months, you’re likely to have fleas during the winter months as well. If your pet goes outdoors and may have contact with squirrels, birds, or other wildlife, they can still get fleas. And, of course, fleas live happily in warm climates all year long, so flea control is a year-round battle.

Myth #7: My veterinarian can most effectively treat fleas – It is fine to consult your veterinarian about flea control, but be wary of the chemical flea control products she may recommend (see Myth #8). In addition, veterinarians may not know the best ways to get rid of fleas in the environment. We recommend trying to find a holistic veterinarian who can guide you on natural flea control products. One resource for finding a holistic veterinarian is the directory of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association.

Myth #8: Chemical spot-on flea products are an easy and safe way to prevent fleas – They are easy, yes, but they are not necessarily safe. The US Environmental Protection Agency recently (2010) completed an in-depth investigation due to the hundreds of reports of illness and death in pets. Serious adverse effects were reported for every product EPA assessed. EPA is in the process of increasing restrictions on their use. You can read more on the EPA website here.

Myth #9: Chemical flea collars are an easy and safe way to prevent fleas – Flea collars are the least effective control method. Fleas spend most of their time off the animal. Their effects tend not to last very long. Conventional flea collars which use chemicals may contain potentially harmful residues that are transferred to pets’ fur and can be transferred to humans who handle them. The Natural Resource Defense Council is involved in a lawsuit in California to block the sale of these products, some of which contain cancer-causing agents and poisons that linger on fur for weeks. Children are most at risk for neurological damage. A great alternative is natural flea tags, which are effective for most pets and can work for up to two years.

Myth #10: Natural flea control products don’t work – Although many natural flea control products don’t have to go through EPA-mandated tests because they aren’t classified as pesticides, this doesn’t mean that they don’t work. People all over the country use the natural approach to flea control effectively, and although it is not always as easy as using chemicals, you can rest assured that the products are safe for your pet and your family.

Posted in Dogs | Leave a comment

Natural Remedies for Respiratory Problems

Posted on February 27, 2011 by Andrea

Andrea J Ross
WHOLESTIC PET SERVICES

If respiratory problems may be the issue, there are several natural remedies that may help alleviate the problem.

It is important to stay hydrated, eat food rich in Vitamin C and Beta Carotene, avoid cold or severe weather conditions, as well as reducing the stress level.

Keep hydrated – plenty of water – Pedi light in water can help stay hydrated.

Foods Rich in Vitamin C – Oranges, Tomatoes

Foods Rich in Beta Carotene – Carrots, Pumpkin, Spinach, Kale

Exercise – swimming in shallow water with constant supervision, as well as running and or walking unrestricted in a calm or playful manner.

Things that you might try on a regular basis to reduce stress are:

Aroma Therapy – this can be Calm Zone Plug Inns, D.A.P. (Doggie Appeasing Pheromone), Lavender Essential Oils, Chamomile Essential Oils, as well as Rescue Remedy can help to reduce stress.

Music Therapy – very light soft spa like music

In the winter avoid cold or severe weather. In the summer if the Air Conditioning is running, consider using a vaporizer to keep moisture in the air.

Water Therapy – a very mild sea salt bath is naturally therapeutic and relaxing.

Massage Therapy – A warm moist towel over the shoulders and chest

Avoid Antibiotics and steroids.  According to an article by Dr. John Mills New research shows that permanent damage can be immediate and devastating.  Doctors may tell you that steroids (cortisone, prednisone) only cause side effects after many years.  This information is no longer true.

And finally, my favorite…

REIKI – Reiki is a Japanese technique for stress reduction and relaxation that also promotes healing.  It is administered by “laying on hands” and is based on the idea that an unseen “life force energy” flows through us and is what causes us to be alive. If one’s “life force energy” is low, then we are more likely to get sick or feel stress, and if it is high, we are more capable of being happy and healthy.

The word Reiki is made of two Japanese words – Rei which means “God’s Wisdom or the Higher Power” and Ki which is “life force energy”. So Reiki is actually “spiritually guided life force energy.”

A treatment feels like a wonderful glowing radiance that flows through and around you. Reiki treats the whole person including body, emotions, mind and spirit creating many beneficial effects that include relaxation and feelings of peace, security and wellbeing. Many have reported miraculous results.

Reiki is a simple, natural and safe method of spiritual healing and self-improvement that everyone can use. It has been effective in helping virtually every known illness and malady and always creates a beneficial effect. It also works in conjunction with all other medical or therapeutic techniques to relieve side effects and promote recovery.

Posted in Dogs | 1 Comment

Toy Dog Facts

Posted on February 12, 2011 by Andrea

By Layne Wood

Breeds

  • Step 1:

The American Kennel Club recognizes 21 breeds in the toy division. Some, like the toy poodle, are the smallest version of a particular breed. Others, such as the miniature pinscher and Italian greyhound, were developed from their similarly named cousins, but are not miniature versions of the larger dogs. Some members of the toy group, such as the Pekingese, are unique to the toy group and were originally bred for their tiny stature. Popular breeds include the Maltese, papillon and Pomeranian.

Advantages

  • Step 1:

Because of their small size and minimal exercise needs, toy dogs are ideal for apartment living. They can be trained to use indoor toileting areas, such as training pads, and some owners have even trained their small dogs to use a litter box. They require less food and in that sense are less expensive to own than larger dogs. They tend to shed less, and they are generally more portable than large dogs. Because anesthesia amounts are determined by weight, many veterinary procedures are less expensive for small dogs. Toy dogs often have small litters. Small dogs also have a longer life expectancy than larger dogs.

Disadvantages

  • Step 1:

Toy dog breeds are not a good choice for active people looking for a running or hiking partner. Their short legs make extensive running difficult and sometimes dangerous. Because of their small circulatory and respiratory systems, toy dogs overheat quickly.

Many toy breeds do not get along well with children, though the pug is one notable exception. Toy dogs are just as prone to dominant or aggressive behavior as larger dogs, but because of their size, their behavior is not a major concern with many owners. Toy dogs can quickly become unmanageable if not properly trained.

Health Concerns

  • Step 1:

Like all dog groups, toy dogs are susceptible to breed-specific health problems. Brachiocephalic problems, such as snoring, wheezing and snorting, are common in dogs with flat snouts. In the toy group, this includes Pekingese, pugs, affenpinschers, Brussels griffons and Shih Tzus. Other common health concerns among toy dogs are diabetes, heart problems and skin conditions.

Questionable Breeding Practices

  • Step 1:

Due to high demand for smaller toy dogs, some breeders engage in unsafe breeding practices in an attempt to produce undersized puppies. By breeding the smallest dogs, or runts, with other runts, these breeders are perpetuating serious health problems. The runts of the litter are often the weakest and most prone to illness. These traits are passed to their offspring.

Another breeding phenomenon among the toy dog group is the creation of “designer” dog breeds. For example, a Yorkshire terrier crossed with a poodle would produce “Yorkie Poos.” These so-called designer dogs have gained popularity in recent years, but they are not recognized by the AKC or similar organizations. Most reputable breeders do not offer designer dogs.

Posted in Dogs | Leave a comment

25 Human Foods Toxic To Dogs

Posted on February 8, 2011 by Andrea

1.) Onions (Both onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient Thiosulphate.
But onions are more of a danger. Many dog biscuits contain *small* amounts
of garlic – garlic contains less of this toxin so huge amounts would need to
be consumed to be toxic. And, by the way, this poison builds up the system –
it can be toxic in one large dose – or with repeated consumption of small
amounts.)

2. Chocolate (Chocolate contains Theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac
stimulant and a diuretic. This can be fatal to dogs.)

3. Grapes (Grapes are dangerous because of an unknown substance which is
toxic to dogs – affects canine’s kidneys)

4. Raisins (See above.)

5. Most Fruit Pits and Seeds (Contain Cyanogenic Glycosides resulting in
cyanide poisoning – though the fruit itself is OK.)

6. Macadamia Nuts (Macadamia nuts contain an unknown substance that is toxic
to dogs.)

7. Bones (Most bones should *not* be given (especially chicken bones)
because they can splinter and cause laceration of the digestive system
and/or become lodged in your pet’s throat – so they also pose a choking
hazard.)

8. Potato Peelings and Green Potatoes (Contain Oxalates, which can affect
the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)

9. Rhubarb leaves (See above.)

10. Broccoli (Broccoli is only toxic in large quantities.)

11. Green parts of Tomatoes or Green Potatoes (Contain oxalates, which can
affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)

12. Yeast Dough (Yeast Dough can produce gas and swell in your pet’s stomach
– leading to rupture of the digestive system)

13. Coffee, Coffee Grounds, Tea, Soft Drinks (Coffee, tea, & most soft
drinks are dangerous due to the caffeine.)

14. Beer/Wine/Alcohol of any kind (Alcohol of any kind could lead to coma or
even death.)

15. Human Vitamins (Human vitamins, especially those containing iron, can
cause damage to the lining of the digestive system as well as cause kidney
and liver damage)

16. Moldy or Spoiled Food (I think this goes without saying.)

17. Persimmons (Persimmons can cause intestinal blockage)

18. Raw Eggs and Raw Fish (Raw eggs and some raw fish can cause Salmonella
poisoning.)

19. Salt, Baking Soda, Baking Powder (In large amounts these can cause an
electrolyte imbalance – and severe electrolyte imbalances can lead to muscle
spasm or even congestive heart failure.)

20. Mushrooms (Mushrooms may contain toxins which could cause liver and
kidney damage)

21. Sugar-Free Foods (Sugar-free foods containing Xylitol have been found to
cause liver failure in some dogs.)

22. Nutmeg (Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures, and central nervous system
damage.)

23. Excessive Fatty Foods (Excess fatty foods can cause Pancreatitis.)

24. Avocado (All parts of the avocado and avocado tree are toxic to dogs.)

25. Diary Products (Dairy products don’t usually pose a great danger; but
many dairy product have high fat content (see number 23) – and many pets are
lactose intolerant – some pets more than others. Lactose intolerance leads
to gas and diarrhea; though small amounts of yogurt and cheese are usually
fairly well tolerated.)

Keep these 25 toxic foods in mind when cooking for your dog. There may be
other foods that your dog can not consume; so always ask your vet when you
are unsure about anything concerning your pets

Posted in Dogs, Pet Safety | Leave a comment

Plan for Pet Disaster Needs

Posted on January 12, 2011 by Andrea

Information for Pet Owners from FEMA
(Federal Emergency Management Agency)

If you evacuate your home, DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND! Pets most likely cannot survive on their own; and if by some remote chance they do, you may not be able to find them when you return.

Plan for Pet Disaster Needs

  • Identifying shelter. For public health reasons, many emergency shelters cannot accept pets. Find out which motels and hotels in the area you plan to evacuate to allow pets — well in advance of needing them. There are also a number of guides that list hotels/motels that permit pets and could serve as a starting point. Include your local animal shelter’s number in your list of emergency numbers — they might be able to provide information concerning pets during a disaster.
  • Take pet food, bottled water, medications, veterinary records, cat litter/pan, can opener, food dishes, first aid kit and other supplies with you in case they’re not available later. While the sun is still shining, consider packing a “pet survival” kit which could be easily deployed if disaster hits.
  • Make sure identification tags are up to date and securely fastened to your pet’s collar. If possible, attach the address and/or phone number of your evacuation site. If your pet gets lost, his tag is his ticket home. Make sure you have a current photo of your pet for identification purposes.
  • Make sure you have a secure pet carrier, leash or harness for your pet so that if he panics, he can’t escape.
  • Animals in Emergencies for Owners This video, developed by the Chemical Stockpile Emergency Preparedness Program (CSEPP) /FEMA, is intended to help pet and livestock owners prepare to protect their animals during emergencies.

Prepare to Shelter Your Pet

  • Call your local emergency management office, animal shelter, or animal control office to get advice and information.
  • If you are unable to return to your home right away, you may need to board your pet. Find out where pet boarding facilities are located. Be sure to research some outside your local area in case local facilities close.
  • Most boarding kennels, veterinarians and animal shelters will need your pet’s medical records to make sure all vaccinations are current. Include copies in your “pet survival” kit along with a photo of your pet.
  • NOTE: Some animal shelters will provide temporary foster care for owned pets in times of disaster, but this should be considered only as a last resort.
  • If you have no alternative but to leave your pet at home, there are some precautions you must take, but remember that leaving your pet at home alone can place your animal in great danger! Confine your pet to a safe area inside — NEVER leave your pet chained outside! Leave them loose inside your home with food and plenty of water.  Remove the toilet tank lid, raise the seat and brace the bathroom door open so they can drink. Place a notice outside in a visible area, advising what pets are in the house and where they are located. Provide a phone number where you or a contact can be reached as well as the name and number of your vet.

During a Disaster

  • Bring your pets inside immediately.
  • Have newspapers on hand for sanitary purposes. Feed the animals moist or canned food so they will need less water to drink.
  • Animals have instincts about severe weather changes and will often isolate themselves if they are afraid. Bringing them inside early can stop them from running away. Never leave a pet outside or tied up during a storm.
  • Separate dogs and cats. Even if your dogs and cats normally get along, the anxiety of an emergency situation can cause pets to act irrationally. Keep small pets away from cats and dogs.
  • In an emergency, you may have to take your birds with you. Talk with your veterinarian or local pet store about special food dispensers that regulate the amount of food a bird is given. Make sure that the bird is caged and the cage is covered by a thin cloth or sheet to provide security and filtered light.

After a Disaster

  • If after a disaster you have to leave town, take your pets with you. Pets are unlikely to survive on their own.
  • In the first few days after the disaster, leash your pets when they go outside. Always maintain close contact. Familiar scents and landmarks may be altered and your pet may become confused and lost. Also, snakes and other dangerous animals may be brought into the area with flood areas. Downed power lines are a hazard.
  • The behavior of your pets may change after an emergency. Normally quiet and friendly pets may become aggressive or defensive. Watch animals closely. Leash dogs and place them in a fenced yard with access to shelter and water.

For additional information, please contact The Humane Society of the United States.

Posted in Pet Safety | Leave a comment

Disaster Preparedness From the ASPCA

Posted on January 12, 2011 by Andrea

Emergencies come in many forms, and they may require anything from a brief absence from your home to permanent evacuation. Each type of disaster requires different measures to keep your pets safe. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pets is to be prepared.

Step 1   Get a Rescue Alert Sticker
This easy-to-use sticker will let people know that pets are inside your home. Make sure it is visible to rescue workers, and that it includes 1) the types and number of pets in your household; 2) the name of your veterinarian; and 3) your veterinarian’s phone number. If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write “EVACUATED” across the stickers.

To get a free emergency pet alert sticker for your home, please fill out our online order form ; please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery. Your local pet supply store may also sell similar stickers.

Step 2   Arrange a Safe Haven
Arrange a safe haven for your pets in the event of evacuation. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND. Remember, if it isn’t safe for you, it isn’t safe for your pets. They may become trapped or escape and be exposed to numerous life-threatening hazards. Note that not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so it is imperative that you have determined where you will bring your pets ahead of time:

  • Contact your veterinarian for a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities.
  • Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets.
  • Identify hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets.
  • Ask friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to take in your pet.

Step 3   Emergency Supplies and Traveling Kits
Keep an Evac-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:

  • Pet first-aid kit and guide book (ask your vet what to include, or visit the ASPCA Store to buy one online)
  • 3-7 days’ worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two months)
  • Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)
  • Litter or paper toweling
  • Liquid dish soap and disinfectant
  • Disposable garbage bags for clean-up
  • Pet feeding dishes
  • Extra harness and leash (Note: harnesses are recommended for safety and security)
  • Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
  • Bottled water, at least 7 days’ worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry place and replace every two months)
  • A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet
  • Flashlight
  • Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)
  • Recent photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make “Lost” posters)
  • Especially for cats: Pillowcase or EvackSack, toys, scoopable litter
  • Especially for dogs: Long leash and yard stake, toys and chew toys, a week’s worth of cage liner.

You should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Items to include: Batteries, duct tape, flashlight, radio, multi-tool, tarp, rope, permanent marker, spray paint, baby wipes, protective clothing and footwear, extra cash, rescue whistle, important phone numbers, extra medication and copies of medical and insurance information.

Step 4   Choose “Designated Caregivers”
This step will take considerable time and thought. When choosing a temporary caregiver, consider someone who lives close to your residence. He or she should be someone who is generally home during the day while you are at work or has easy access to your home. A set of keys should be given to this trusted individual. This may work well with neighbors who have pets of their own—you may even swap responsibilities, depending upon who has accessibility.

When selecting a permanent caregiver, you’ll need to consider other criteria. This is a person to whom you are entrusting the care of your pet in the event that something should happen to you. When selecting this “foster parent,” consider people who have met your pet and have successfully cared for animals in the past. Be sure to discuss your expectations at length with a permanent caregiver, so he or she understands the responsibility of caring for your pet.

Step 5  Evacuation Preparation
If you must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario. If you think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. To minimize evacuation time, take these simple steps:

  • Store an emergency kit and leashes as close to an exit as possible.
  • Make sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification. Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number, and any urgent medical needs. Be sure to write your pet’s name, your name and contact information on your pet’s carrier.
  • The ASPCA recommends microchipping your pet as a more permanent form of identification. A microchip is implanted in the animal’s shoulder area, and can be read by scanner at most animal shelters.  The pet must then be registered to be recognized.
  • Always bring pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets can become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis.
  • Consider your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your pet outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster.

Step 6  Geographic and Climatic Considerations
Do you live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as tornadoes, earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.

  • Determine well in advance which rooms offer safe havens. These rooms should be clear of hazards such as windows, flying debris, etc.
  • Choose easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe zones.
  • Access to a supply of fresh water is particularly important. In areas that may lose electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have access to water during a power outage or other crises.
  • In the event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter.

If emergency officials recommend that you stay in your home, it’s crucial that you keep your pets with you. Keep your Evac-Pack and supplies close at hand. Your pets may become stressed during the in-house confinement, so you may consider crating them for safety and comfort.

Special Considerations for Birds

  • Birds should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier.
  • In cold weather, make certain you have a blanket over your pet’s cage. This may also help reduce the stress of traveling.
  • In warm weather, carry a spray bottle to periodically moisten your bird’s feathers.
  • Have recent photos available, and keep your bird’s leg bands on for identification.
  • If the carrier does not have a perch, line it with paper towels that you can change frequently.
  • Keep the carrier in as quiet an area as possible.
  • It is particularly imperative that birds eat on a daily basis, so purchase a timed feeder. If you need to leave your bird unexpectedly, the feeder will ensure his daily feeding schedule.
  • Items to keep on hand: Catch net, heavy towel, blanket or sheet to cover cage, cage liner.

Special Considerations for Reptiles

  • A snake may be transported in a pillowcase, but you should have permanent and secure housing for him when you reach a safe place.
  • Take a sturdy bowl that is large for your pet to soak in. It’s also a good idea to bring along a heating pad or other warming device, such as a hot water bottle.
  • Lizards can be transported like birds (see above).

Special Considerations for Small Animals

  • Small animals, such as hamsters, gerbils, mice and guinea pigs, should be transported in secure carriers with bedding materials, food and food bowls.
  • Items to keep on hand: Salt lick, extra water bottle, small hidebox or tube, a week’s worth of bedding.
Posted in Pet Safety | Leave a comment

Reconsidering Massage

Posted on October 18, 2010 by admin

by Brian Dean

While massage is something that you think about when you are at a fancy resort on vacation, luxuriating under someone’s touch in the absolute decadent world, it is actually much more that that.  It is necessary healthcare that we ignore, but should not.

When we think of massage, we think of many movies where the rich folks are at some resort in the mountains, where they get into mineral baths and then get worked on by people whose names are Ingrid or Svetlana or Sven.  And because the cost of massage, and the unavailability of it (at least at the time the movies were made), we still think it is only a luxury.  But with today’s stresses and work issues, it really is something we need, and it is not as unaffordable or unavailable as one might think.

In the workplace, there are many types of stress, and as doctors keep telling us, stress is one of the leading causes of high blood pressure which can lead to heart problems.  We need a way to relax, and chill out.  We need to play as well as work, but all too often, there are other issues that keep us from playing.  So, when we are stressed, we see the doctor who gives us medication to help us stay calm.  Massage can help one de-stress without filling your system with ‘happy juice’.

Massage works the muscles, removing lactic acid from them and flushing it out of your system.  It affects the Parasympathetic nervous System (PNS), the part of your system that works in the form of rest and repose (as opposed to the Sympathetic Nervous System with produces the ‘fight or flight’ mechanism).  Massage also produces a feeling of well-being which is caused by the release of endorphins, a natural chemical created in the body.

Basically, massage is a way to relax and let go.  It is an hour of forced quiet time which allows someone to come out much calmer than they were when they went in.  But it is more than that.

Today’s work environments have changed dramatically from 20 years ago.  Today, we spend most of our time working on computers which means we are typing, sitting, and bending.  Because of this, most people have issues with their lower back and their shoulders and neck.  Many people hurt from sitting so long, or typing so much.   Others suffer from related problems like Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (a painful lump in their wrists).  Massage can help these issues as well.

Massage can work the muscles of the neck and shoulders as well as the low back, glutes, and legs.  Through these movements one can remove a lot of the pain as massage can relieve tension in specific areas of the body.  By stretching the muscles, it makes them relax and feel looser and less painful.

Massage is also good for people that have specific problems because of how they use their body during work.  It is good for athletes as it helps keep their bodies from hurting.  Various types of massage can also reduce problems from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome or Fibromyalgia if not remove the problems completely.

But while massage is not free, it does not have to be so exorbitant that it is completely unaffordable.  Unfortunately, when we think of massage, we think of day spas where the cost of a 50 minute session can be anywhere from $80 to $125.  But there are places that do massage at a much lower rate, and you will not sacrifice quality for the lower price.

You see, here’s the secret, just because someone charges a lot of money for what they do, that does not mean that they are good.  (Of course massage is subjective, and not everyone likes what every massage therapist does.)  There are many massage studios that charge in the range of $60 that have good therapists working in them.  You need to call and talk to the people and see if they are knowledgeable and willing to answer questions.  Also, see how long the sessions are, and how much of that session time is massage (many places will quote an hour session, but massage is only 50 minutes of that).  Once you feel comfortable with the place you talk to, then you go in and see what they can do.

Massage can help most people deal with the problems of this day and age.  Even receiving a session once a month is helpful.  In many cases, a doctor can prescribe massage, and many insurance companies are now paying for massage sessions.

So, maybe it is time to rethink what massage is and what it can do for you.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Translating the Chakras

Posted on October 18, 2010 by admin

by Brian Dean

Energy is a strange and wondrous thing, but it is energies, not just energy.  There are energies all around us in the trees, the rocks, the earth, even the air and light.  (Yes, the Force surrounds us always.)  But there are energies in the human body, and they are controlled by energy centers called Chakras (pronounced shock-rahs).

In the body, we have seven major energy centers (chakras).  There are many minor energy centers, or sub-chakras, and many more much smaller energy centers, or sub-sub-chakras.  Energy is always moving through the body, and its path is controlled by the chakras.  If there is a problem in any of the energy centers, there is a corresponding problem in the person, or visa versa.

As practitioners of many energy modalities including Reiki, Polarity Therapy, and Therapeutic Touch can tell you is that energy should always be flowing.  When it gets stuck or blocked, it causes problems in the body.  The problem is that energy does get stuck.  Some say that the energy field reflects what is in the body and some say that the body reflects what is in the energy field.  But it is the energy centers, or chakras, that determine what is affected, and by looking at the chakras, one can get a general idea what is going on.

So, here is a simple guide to the chakras from the bottom up, and what they control…

Root Chakra

Location: Pubic Bone where the genitals are.  (The male root chakra is actually two inches lower than the female.)

Color: Red

Controls:  All things physical

If the Root Chakra is blocked, one would have some type of physical problem.  This could be pain (like back pain, or pain in some area), problems doing things (like range of motion issues), or a physical impairment of some type.

Spleen Chakra also known as the Center Chakra (as the martial arts refers to one’s center as two inches below their naval; in India they refer to this area as one’s Hara)

Location: The midsection two inches below the naval

Color: Orange

Controls: Emotions

Someone with a blocked Center Chakra would be having some type of emotional issues.  This could be sadness, worry, fear, etc.  It is something that is bothering them either constantly, or nagging them in the background.

Solar Plexus Chakra

Location: Just below the sternum in the midsection

Color: Yellow

Controls: Thought processes.

With a blocked Solar Plexus Chakra, one could have trouble thinking or concentrating.  The opposite could also be true where they are over-thinking, like worrying about career prospects.  If you are one of these people that constantly worry about everything down to the minutest detail, you could easily have this chakra blocked.

Heart Chakra

Location: in the center of the chest (at the heart)

Color: Green

Controls: Balance

This chakra controls balance as in physical balance as well as balance in life and balance between the upper and lower chakras.  (The upper chakras are more ethereally based while the lower ones are more physically based.)  Someone with a blocked heart chakra could have physical balance issues, but more likely, they would have life balance issues.  This could be needing a balance between work and play, balance in activities, and so forth.

Throat Chakra

Location: Throat

Color: Blue

Controls: Communication

A block in the Throat Chakra would cause communication problems, but not just in the expected sense.  Yes, this could mean that one is having trouble communicating, but it could also mean someone is not saying things they want to.  They could be biting their tongue so to speak and not saying something that they very much want to, but would get them into trouble, or make a bad situation worse if they did say it.  This could be comments held back from a boss or loved one.  This is not a situation where they can not formulate the words, but it is a situation where communication is stifled, so it is a problem.

Third Eye Chakra

Location: Center of the forehead

Color: Indigo (a mix of blue and violet)

Controls: Insight

A problem with insight could be significant.  Our Third Eye Chakra is where we pick up information in the form of energy.  This is the information we get that is above and beyond our other five senses.  This is what drives our intuition.  With insight issues, we could find it hard to make decisions.  The path to the right answer could be clouded and unsure.  Our ability to notice things could also be affected.  Often we notice how other people are doing.  We can tell that they are not doing well even if they tell us they are.  Without insight, we miss this information.

Crown Chakra

Location: Just above the head

Color: Violet

Controls: Connection to spirit (the ethereal connection to the universe)

Most people do not have blocked Crown Chakras, but occasionally it does happen.  These people tend to feel unguided and alone.  On the other hand mediums tend to have a very open Crown Chakra.  They get information from spirit and pass it on to others.  When we get information through this chakra, it is such a type that we usually don’t know where it came from, but we know it to be so.

There is also a trick to remembering the colors.  You just have to remember my good friend Roy G. Biv.

It is possible to have blocks on the lower chakras, and not the upper, or the reverse.  I have seen people that were very spiritually connected, but could not do much physically, and had problems thinking, and emotional issues.  I have also seen where people have been closed off to the upper chakras.  They had trouble communicating, and had very little insight and no guidance.

A good energy practitioner that knows how to check for blocks can tell a lot about a person from what chakras are problems.  I remember once telling someone I had just met that she had emotional issues because her Center Chakra was blocked.  She then told me how she had broken up with her boyfriend three days before.

So, energy is not mystical, nor is it anything to laugh at.  If we take notice of energies, we can find things that are not right, and help get them back to where they should be.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment